Holy Mole

Puebla

The summer is on its way, however UK residents know the warm weather is never consistent, so occasionally those in between days still require a belly warming meal to bring us comfort from the often rainy weather.  A favorite dish that does just this is mole.  There is the much loved Mole Poblano and the 7 types of mole from Oaxaca.  I am sure there are many more but 7 types of mole are enough for me to digest.  Mole Poblano is a rich, generally spicy sauce (though chiles can be removed) made with bitter chocolate, chiles, seeds, nuts, sometimes fruit, bread for thickening and various spices.

There are many claims to its origin, although it is most popular in Central and Southern Mexico, in particular Oaxaca and Puebla.  The chiles most used for mole are pasilla, ancho, chipotle and mulata.  Like tamales, Mole sauce made in the traditional way can be very time consuming.  I have sourced a much simpler recipe for you, but if you are a purist then I will also share a more authentic recipe.  Mole sauce can be prepared with chicken, pork or beef but is tradtionally paired with turkey.  The ingredients are roasted and ground into a paste and then made into a sauce generally mixed with a stock.  So let's educate all of you on this matter before beginning your culinary journey into the earthy, complex world of mole sauces.  Mole in a way is a generic name for "Sauce".

Mole Coloradito

Mole Negro (black), is the more popular rich, dark mole eaten throughout most of America and most likely your introduction into mole like it was for me in Mexico's City's airport.  This moles consists of bitter chocolate, pumpkin and sesame seeds, chiles, coriander, hoja santa (a leaf herb which adds to it dark colour), dried fruit and whole spices that are ground down such as cinnamon, cloves, and black pepper.

Mole Rojo (Red), is also known as the coveted Mole Poblano.  Its ingredients are almost identical to Mole Negro, only spicier, sweeter and redder in colour due to the use of dried red chiles.

Ancho, pasilla and guajillo chiles bring the spiciness up a notch, while grounds almonds, peanuts and raisins give the mole a delicate sweetness.  A definite must try.

Mole Verde (Green), is a bit more common than some of the others I am about to enlighten you with and is most consumed with chicken.  A good amount of pumpkin seeds, tomatillos, coriander and jalapenos are the contributors to its green colour and lighter taste.

Mole Amarillo (yellow) slightly resembles an Indian curry.  The sweet ingredients including the chocolate are eliminated while the rest of the ingredients resemble those in the moles mentioned earlier.  It is a more savoury sauce.

Mole Colaradito (shade of red/tinted) contains the usual whole spices, garlic, seeds, chocolate and plantains.  The plantains infuse a sweetness and thickness to this lovely mole.

Chichilo Mole is a bit more labour intense, one I will leave to the Mexican grandmothers.  Beginning with a homemade beef stock, arbol guajillo, ancho chiles, onions, garlic, masa harina, or crushed fresh tortillas.  The chocolate is eliminated in this one as well.  Fantastic with braised meats.

Manchamantel Mole (table-cloth staining) does exactly that, with ingredients like chorizo, tomatoes, and ancho chiles.  Plantains and pineapple add a zingy sweetness to this spicy concoction.  I honestly will be dreaming of this one for a while.

Article written by Michelle Cuadra

Chicken Mole with Coriander Rice

As promised, a simpler more accessible recipe for mole.  It still takes about 2 hours but obviously the slow cooking intensifies flavours and a lot of that time is spent in the slow cooking process.  Fortunately, modern cooking has been blessed with food processors and blenders to alleviate the usual tedious hard work usually involved in grinding ingredients to a paste.  Thank goodness!  

Ingredients

• 2 ancho chiles 
•   2 tbsp sunflower oil
• 8 bone-in chicken thighs, skins removed
• 2 onions, chopped
• 2 tsp ground cumin
• 1½ tsp cinnamon
• 3 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
• 50g raisins
• 2 tbsp smooth peanut butter
• 2 tbsp chipotle paste
• 400g can chopped tomatoes
• 25g dark chocolate (look for one with at least 70% cocoa solids)
• 1 small red onion, sliced into rings
• juice 1 lime, plus wedges to serve (optional)
• 150ml pot soured cream

For the coriander rice

• 600g long grain rice
• large bunch coriander, finely chopped
• zest 2 limes and juice of 1

Preparation

1. Put the chiles in a bowl and add enough boiling water to just cover. Leave to soften for 20 mins. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a flameproof casserole dish, season the chicken, then brown on all sides. You may have to do this in batches so you don’t overcrowd the dish. Remove to a plate. Add the onions to the dish and cook for 5 mins until softened. Add the spices and cook for 1 min until aromatic.
2. Remove the chiles from their soaking liquid, reserving the liquid, and discard the stalks and seeds. Put in a food processor with 4 tbsp of the soaking liquid, the garlic and raisins. Whizz to a paste, then tip into the dish. Add the peanut butter, chipotle paste, tomatoes and 400ml water (fill up the tomato can and swirl to get all the tomato bits out). Return the chicken to the dish and season. Cover with a lid and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 1 hr.
3. Remove the chicken pieces to a plate. Using 2 forks, shred the meat and discard the bones. Return the chicken to the sauce, add the chocolate and continue cooking, uncovered, for 30 mins more. If the sauce looks like it’s getting a little too thick, add some of the chile soaking liquid or some water.
4. Cook the rice following pack instructions. Meanwhile, put the red onion in a small bowl. Add the lime juice and a pinch of salt. Leave to pickle until ready to serve. When the rice is cooked, add the coriander and lime zest and juice, and fluff up with a fork. Remove the mole from the heat, scatter with the pickled red onion and serve alongside the rice, with soured cream and lime wedges, if you like.

Prep:30 minsCook:2 hrsServes 6
Recipe from Good Food magazine, April 2013